In the heart of Peshawar, KPK, the surrounding mountains bear witness to tales of ancient trade, colonial resistance, and deep-rooted cultures. Crouching down the slope of Peshawar’s Fort Road, the Kabli Gate of the famous Qissa Khwani Bazaar / the Bazaar of Tales stands to the left. Named upon the gatherings by merchants, traders, travelers, and poets who would become actors – recounting fables, debating politics, and uniquely sharing adventures. The chai khanas (tea houses) were the central zone for these activities. Caravans from Central Asia, Persia, and Indian Subcontinent – laden with silk, spices, and precious gems – trudged along the silk route and had their paths weaved together at this very cultural bazaar. The air hummed with the tales and laughs of foreigners and locals rooted with the smell of brewing qehwa (traditional green tea), chai, and sizzling kababs. Many tales and folk stories continue to echo through generations, shared by elders in the vibrant spirit of Bazaar. Among these narratives is a famous cherished tale of "The Merchant and the Poet."

While strolling down the main bazaar street at noon on a December Sunday (2024), the nostalgic vibe for us spoke tales of diverse historic eras merging seamlessly. The people of Peshawar, the Pathaans & Pashtuns – hospitable yet upright, are always intriguing for me to meet. The welcoming calls from every shop and stall, with them speaking in Urdu as they saw us, was an additional excitement. With colourful buildings, dusky streets, and the crowd of families buying chadars, Peshawari hats, crockery, dry fruit, sweets, and eating roasted chicken and samosas, created a very traditionally natural, raw, and subtle atmosphere. As we strolled towards the inner courtyard housing clothing shops all around, the cultural frocks and dresses were a delight to see. Looking up above the narrow alleyways, the old carvings of wooden and mud-brick facades were noticeable, yet a ping of sorrow went through as those were hidden from the public’s eye and lacked restoration works. Inner zones were often tangled with electric wires and uneven roads, which made me think how this heritage deserves equal attention as that of outer main streets where conservational progress was visible.

The main wide street opened up to many eateries with old literary places – Kutup Khanas, with dates etched onto the structures. The network of streets within the street held different unique stories and names but mostly the same structural features. The layout of the bazaar is designed like a roadside inn/caravanserai – a resting stop for merchants and traders. Wide streets connecting with narrow alleyways opened inner smaller marketplaces surrounding large courtyards. These streets are still retained and maintained by the users. With mud-brick and stone as the main structural elements, the wooden balconies and jharokas seemed to be the most prominent features of the bazaar, with intricate wooden floral and geometrical patterns over upper stories, including literary seating spaces. Finely carved lattice screens/jalis served as aesthetic and sustainable features, ensuring air and light inside the spaces. The artifacts and ornamentation were done mostly with brass, wooden works, bamboo, and stained colored glass. 

Scattered around the bazaar are the Havelies – traditional courtyard houses of ancient merchants with multi-level structures. The structures were built according to Peshawar’s climate with outer materials as insulation. For social gatherings and sleeping areas, flat rooftops were used predominantly. Mughal-era-designed mosques also could be seen featuring ornate domes, slender minarets, and intricate blue-green tilework. Quite interestingly, the bazaar is also known as the birthplace of famous names like Abdul Gaffar Khan and also within the narrow alleyways – Yusuf Khan – later known as an Indian actor, Dilip Kumar.

Historically, it is not just a place of trade and leisure; the bazaar has also seen major historic turns. The 1930s brought a distressed era of British resistance by the Pushtun nationalists, from whom British troops killed many. The first major confrontation between British colonialists and Gaffar Khan's Khudai Khidmetgar Movement. Thus, the blood of martyrs intertwines the bazaar’s name with the fight for freedom.

During the British era, the influence of colonial architecture could be seen via arched doorways, facades, and gabled roofs. These features co-excited with the traditional architecture of the bazaar. As a living museum, carved balconies, sunlit courtyards, and lively shopfronts tell the story of a bygone era thriving as Peshawar’s vernacular heritage.

Moving out onto the main street and returning, we had traditional donuts with the perfect amount of sugar and vanilla essence. The memories and stories we capture in our heads are precious. It was a delight and an ideal end to a blissful year. I'm sure the night view must be mesmerizing, with warm lights adding to its charm. We walked out of Kabli Gate with full hearts, yet unsure if we would visit it again.

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Qissa-Khwani bazaar ki ek sham

Tasahul ki chadar lapeTe hue qissa-Khwani ek sham thi

hum wahan apni din bhar ki is jaan-lewa thakan se

nabard-azma

Khub qahwon pe qahwe ke piyale lunDhate rahe

aur apne buland-bang dawon se aur qahqahon se

kahin ghonslon mein chhupe thak ke soe hue

nim-jaan taeron ko jagate rahe

aur guzre zamane ke piron faqiron ki koi na kai karamat sunate rahe

(kis tarah sahiban-e-karamat barzaKH to barzaKH

shar-angez zindon ki ruhen bulane pe qadir

sabhi ko bad-amaliyon se bachate rahe)

par jo ye sab nahi mante the

wo niswar ki tez bu mein base

inT gare ke ek nim-puKHta thaDe par

bar-afroKHta ho ke inkar mein sar hilate rahe

han magar wo ki jin ke labon par

charas aur ganje ki udi si tah

mustaqil jam gai thi

faqat muskuraate rahe

aur sangat mein maujud jo bachcha-KHush the

wo har aate jate trahdar kam-umr laDke ko

aaankhon hi aaankhon mein pate rahe

phir sab aapas mein mil kar

karachi se kunduz tak pesha karti hui kasbiyon

hijDon aur lounDon ke

pur-kaif qisse sunate rahe

gudgudate rahe

dil lubhate rahe

Via; Harris Khalique, Book : ishq ki taqweem men (Pg. 171)

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Isha Suhail, Abdur Rehman

January 1st, 2025

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